Back in 1979, New Zealand cartoonist and satirist Tom Scott, writing in NZ Listener magazine, had this to say about New Zealand: “Terrible tragedy in the South Seas. Three million people trapped alive.” The big news in 2003 was that we hit the four million population mark, and more than half of that increase was due to immigration. Given that we have around 44 million sheep, one New Zealander still equates to a whole lot of fresh lamb. Look beyond the farm gate, though, and you’ll find we’ve caught up with the rest of the world. We may bob about at the bottom of the Southern Hemisphere, but it would be unfair to consider the country a backwater.

White (Auckland; tel. 09/978-2000): Named for its stunning minimal all-white interior, White is the handiwork of celebrated consulting chef Luke Mangan, who owns the award-winning restaurant Salt in Sydney. Its best feature is The Table, a big informal table for diners who like the idea of mixing with others over an outstanding meal.

Otto’s (Auckland; tel. 09/300-9595): This is posh-plush, professionalism-plus. Located in the delicious Ascott Metropolis Hotel, Otto’s emphasizes the “fine” in fine dining and has staff that delivers the goods in terms of service and style. Just make sure you’ve swallowed your last mouthful before you catch your breath at the bill.

Dine by Peter Gordon (Auckland; tel. 09/363-7030): The latest rave on the Auckland culinary scene, this lush little spot is the new playground of London/New Zealand celebrity chef Peter Gordon. Set in the new SKYCITY Grand Hotel, it’s bound to stimulate every taste bud you own.

Café Bastille (Wellington; tel. 04/382-9559): This cute little French bistro-style den is a winner if you’re after a smart but casual ambience with terrific food. A winner in the Best Restaurant of New Zealand stakes, it shouldn’t be bypassed.

Herzog (Blenheim; tel. 03/572-8770): Expect the very best from this winery and restaurant that has been held up by New York’s Wine Spectator for its impressive stock of around 3,200 of the world’s best wines. It’s a fine dining experience you won’t forget in a hurry.

Rotherams (Christchurch; tel. 03/341-5142): Swiss-born chef Martin Weiss has mastered the art of stunning his hungry patrons. In an interior that’s all about romance and special occasions, he presents meals that excel in both presentation and taste. Not to be missed — likewise the extensive wine list.

The Bunker (Queenstown; tel. 03/441-8030): Don’t start celebrating until you’ve actually found it and are sitting at one of its tables! Notoriously hard to find (that’s part of its charm), and expensive when you get there, this hidden culinary jewel delivers on all the superlatives it receives. Make sure you hunt it down.

Visit the World’s Biggest Polynesian Market: Why go all around the Pacific Islands when you can get the best of it in the comfort of an Otara parking lot? Go hungry and feast on island goodies, smell the smells, and buy beautiful tapa cloth and top-notch Polynesian weaving.

Swim with Sharks: You’ve got to be keen, I admit, but this can be done in perfect safety. Along with those charming, perfectly harmless tropical fish in the Poor Knights Maritime Reserve, you can come face to face with Jaws‘s South Seas cousins in a tough metal cage. Gisborne offers a similar knuckle-biting thrill.

Visit a Maori Marae: Experience the hongi (the formal nose-to-nose Maori greeting), see deeply moving song and dance performances, and eat from a traditional underground hangi (oven). Do this in Rotorua as part of an organized tour experience, or seek permission to visit one of the dozens of East Cape marae (village common).

Take the East Cape Road: Journey back in time as you travel the last remote outreaches of the Pacific Coast Highway. It’s a feast of living Maori culture, stunning coastline, empty beaches, stockmen herding sheep on horseback, wild horses, and roaming stock (drive carefully) — and it’s the first place in the world to see the morning sun.

Do the Eastern Bays Scenic Mail Run: Get a feel for real rural New Zealand as you whiz around lonely, unpaved roads delivering mail to far-flung farming families. Hear all the latest community news firsthand and see some stunning landscapes in the bargain.

Whale-Watch in Kaikoura: When a mighty sperm whale flaps its tail at you, you won’t forget it in a hurry. These big sea monsters come to this particular stretch of water for a marine habitat rich in their kind of plankton. Don’t be surprised to see dolphins aplenty, too.

Eat Bugs and Beetles at the Wildfoods Festival: Prime yourself! You’ll need culinary fortitude for this mind-boggling event — you could be served up anything from wriggling grubs to the unmentionable body parts of a number of wild and not-so-wild animals. The West Coast at its most rugged best.

Drive into Skippers Canyon: Relive the pioneer days as you make your way into one of the hottest old gold-mining areas via a treacherous road guaranteed to take your mind off any other troubles you thought you had! Take a bungy jump while you’re here — if you dare. One thing’s for sure — it couldn’t be any worse than the road.

Stalk Kiwis at Night: And I mean the birds! Get ready for surprises on this little southern adventure. It’s the only place in the country where you can creep about lonely beaches at night with flashlights and stealth and not get arrested! At the same time, you’ll be one of the lucky few who get to see a wild kiwi foraging for its supper among the seaweed.

Scuba Diving in the Poor Knights: Jacques Yves Cousteau rated this among the best diving spots in the world. This unique marine reserve has the best of tropical currents sweeping in to make it warm and inviting for a wide variety of tropical species that aren’t found anywhere else in New Zealand’s waters.

Blackwater Rafting in the Waitomo Glowworm Caves: Daredevils can now go underground to leap off waterfalls; slink through dark, damp, underground waterways; abseil off Lost World rock faces; and do other things in the dark.

Trout Fishing in Taupo: They say the fish in Lake Taupo are so big that when you catch one, the lake level drops. The dozens of other rivers (especially world-renowned Tongariro) and streams in the region also have rich pickings for the fisherman.

Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park: It takes a lot to beat this balmy little paddle into the best-preserved and most beautiful coastline of New Zealand. Keep company with nosy seal pups and dolphins; call into pristine, deserted beaches; and explore rocky headlands.

Walking the Glaciers: Dig out those snow boots and walking poles, add a dash of nerve and daring, and take the walk of a lifetime down Fox or Franz Josef glaciers in the deep south. And don’t forget your camera so you can bring home those unforgettable views into the snow caves.

Getting Wild in Queenstown: This is New Zealand’s adrenaline capital, where you get more than one chance to show how crazy you really are. There are more daredevil stunts per square inch here than anywhere else in the country. An international skiing mecca in winter, it readily transforms itself into summer madness as well.

Walking the Fiordland Tracks: If you fancy yourself as a multiday tramper, there’s plenty to keep you out of mischief in Fiordland. This is where you get some of the best walks in the world — the Milford, the Hollyford, the Kepler, and the Routeburn tracks.

Waiheke Island’s Onetangi Bay: Stand on the bay’s wide stretch of golden sand, and you can see for miles. On a clear day, throw yourself down into the sand and gaze at the steep pinnacles of Great Barrier Island and Little Barrier, off in the hazy distance. There might even be a few glimpses of the Coromandel in between deliciously warm swims.

Karikari Peninsula’s Beaches: This is the Far North at its subtropical best — endless sweeps of sparkling white sand lapped by crystal-clear, azure-blue waters. And from Tokerau Beach to Rangiputa to Matai Bay, you could have miles of it to yourself for beachcombing, sunbathing, and swimming (with care).

Coopers Beach: Partly shaded by a bank of red-emblazoned pohutukawa trees, how could you not be content to stretch out here? Exercise? A walk to the water should do it!

Hot Water Beach: Don’t ask me why, or how, but if you get here 2 hours before or after low tide, you can hollow out a spot on the beach for yourself, then wait for natural hot water to seep up through the sand. A natural spa experience without paying a cent!

Mount Maunganui’s Ocean Beach: Surf, sand, and sun — some people never want more than that. Throw on a bit of suntan lotion, a pair of sunglasses, and a skimpy swimsuit, and you’ll be able to mix it with the best of the bronzed bodies that make an annual pilgrimage to this perennial beach and surf favorite.

Kaiteriteri Beach: Half of Canterbury makes a beeline for these blissful shores every summer. It’s not expansive — in fact it’s quite small, but perfectly formed nonetheless, and there’s a busy vacation atmosphere with packed campgrounds and holiday houses. And with Nelson’s endless hours of sunshine, who could complain about size?

Abel Tasman National Park’s Beaches: Bush-wrapped and locked between rocky headlands, these idyllic golden patches from Marahau north to Totaranui are accessible by sea only. That’s what makes them so special. Gliding through the turquoise waters in your sea kayak, with curious seals to keep you company, you can take your pick of isolated havens.

Tongariro Crossing: Often described as one of the best 1-day walks in New Zealand, this high-altitude hike across volcanic terrain will give you cold mountain springs, lava flows, an active crater, emerald-colored crater lakes, and unforgettable views. Be fit and enthusiastic.

The Abel Tasman Coastal Track: This is another easy 3- to 5-day walk where the guided option gives you the choice of ditching those hefty packs. From start to finish, 52km (32 miles) later, it winds in and out of gorgeous sheltered coves, golden beaches, rocky headlands, and natural unspoiled bush.

The Heaphy Track: No softy guided options here: You go it alone for 4 to 6 days from the junction of the Brown and Aorere rivers, across tussock-covered flats to the wild seas of Karamea on the West Coast.

The Milford Track: The mother of them all, the Milford is one of the world’s best and most loved multiday tramps. Stretching through the best of Fiordland, this 54km (33-mile) trail follows the Clinton and Arthur valleys and crosses McKinnon Pass with views you’ll never forget.

The Routeburn Track: Like the Milford and the Hollyford before it, this track makes its way into virgin rainforest and the sort of wild fairyland scenery where you’d expect to see elves and gnomes prancing around.

The North West Circuit: This is a real test for experienced trampers who think they can face 10 to 12 days walking 125km (78 miles) through bird-filled native bush, big beaches, and long stretches knee-deep in mud. I’m told the rewards are plenty.

Sky Tower: The paramount city view in not only New Zealand, but also the entire Southern Hemisphere. Once you get out of that glass-faced lift 328m (1,076 ft.) above the city, you’ll know just what I mean. Fabulous 360-degree views of Auckland unfold below, and you can test your courage by walking over glass floors!

Hicks Bay: Stop at the high point above Hicks Bay before you descend into Te Araroa to see New Zealand’s largest pohutukawa tree and the East Cape Lighthouse. Resting awhile, high up between the two bays, see if you can imagine Captain Cook’s expression when he first sighted the area, and his relief to be leaving again after a tragic Maori massacre in which one European was killed and eaten on his wedding night.

Hastings’s Te Mata Peak: A big “sleeping giant” of a hill, 393m (1,289-ft.) Te Mata affords big views of endless green and brown undulations, reaching all the way to the coast. Havelock North, Hastings, and Napier all blend together below.

Wellington’s Kelburn Cable Car: Not so far above the capital’s busy shopping streets, you’ll be rewarded with postcard-perfect vistas of glass-faced high-rises silhouetted against the harbor. Step off the cute red cable car into the verdant acres of the Botanical Gardens and look seaward. No matter what the weather, the view is always memorable.

Queenstown’s Skyline Gondola: It’s everybody’s aim to get high in Queenstown one way or another. Make yours by way of a smooth gondola ride to the top of Bob’s Peak. Step out into the cool, crisp, exceedingly fresh air with New Zealand’s playground spread out at your feet. The Remarkables will keep the view in check, and Lake Wakatipu will be a big blue basin below.

Nugget Point: You may not have seen another human being for hours by the time you make your way to the lookout above Nugget Point. And once you’ve experienced the blissful solitude of standing on this wild, windswept Catlins promontory, you probably won’t care if you don’t see anyone for several more. Thick, swirling masses of kelp, seals, penguins, and seabirds galore — they’re all here by the hundreds.

Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga: From the spiritual tip of the North Island where, Maori say, the souls of the dead depart, to mountainous sand dunes, quicksand, and the broad flat stretch of Ninety Mile Beach, this is a must-see area filled with the unexpected.

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland: The earth’s molten core hints at its artistic potential in a veritable rainbow of color and steamy chaos manifested in geysers, mud pools, hot bubbling lakes, steamy terraces, and more. A photographer’s paradise, but tread carefully.

Tongariro National Park: Three major volcanoes dominate a rugged central plateau landscape: Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngauruhoe. An indomitable threesome, they’re rife with Maori legend and rich in a few modern stories as well. Great for skiers, trampers, and anyone else wanting a physical challenge.

Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers: This is one of the very few places on earth where you’ll find full-fledged glaciers this close to the ocean. In a slow, ever-onward creep, they make their way from the heights of the Southern Alps down into untouched rainforest.

Fiordland: Come here on a wet day (and that’s easy because this place gets the most rainfall in New Zealand), and you’ll think you’ve stepped into the living set of The Lord of the Rings. This place defies all superlatives. It is the ultimate must-see.

The Catlins Coast: This is wild, natural New Zealand at its unspoiled best. From unique fossil forests to all manner of seabirds and mammals, native bush, waterfalls, wild beaches, unforgettable tangles of driftwood, and a frustratingly changeable climate — the area takes a lot of beating, but the resulting dramatic impact is unforgettable.

Ulva Island: Tucked into Stewart Island’s Paterson Inlet, tiny Ulva Island will leave you speechless with its incredible native bird life. It’s wall-to-wall feathers here — and what’s more, they’re not afraid of humans. Don’t go without your camera; you’ll need evidence once you start telling friends back home about it.

Auckland Museum: This is the perfect place for an early lesson in things Maori. The recently revamped museum has the largest collection of Maori artifacts in the world. Large war canoes, meetinghouses, greenstone weapons, and feather cloaks are here. On top of that, the Manaia Maori Performance Group puts on a stunning show three times a day.

Te Puia’s Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve and New Zealand Maori Arts & Crafts Institute: Maori guides will lead you through the thermal reserve, explaining the significance of the area to the Maori people. There’s also a live song-and-dance performance, a tour of a replica Maori village, and the chance to watch working weavers and carvers in the Arts & Crafts Institute, which was set up in 1963 to foster traditional craft skills.

Tamaki Maori Village: This re-created ancient Maori village was the New Zealand Tourism Awards Supreme winner in 1998. It presents Maori life as it used to be pre-European settlement. You’ll tour the village with a Maori elder, learn the ancient myths, watch a traditional performance, and eat from a traditional hangi.

Royal Lakeside Novotel: Here you’ll find the best Maori hangi and performance in Rotorua. It includes a steam-cooked hangi, poi dance, haka dance, traditional songs and games, and an excellent audiovisual presentation spanning 150 years of Rotorua’s history.

East Cape: This is a remote enclave of Maori culture — one of the last places in New Zealand where the Maori language is part of everyday life. You’ll find more than 100 marae scattered along the length of the East Cape Road, and if you ask permission, in most cases you’ll be allowed to enter. There are numerous Maori settlements and highly decorative Maori churches.

Auckland City to Mission Bay: This is the stuff of a weekend afternoon spin to see how the other half lives. Best done in a Ferrari, a BMW, an Audi, or an equally cool classic if you want to leave a lasting impression. Tight shorts and in-line skates do the trick just as well if you want a cheaper set of wheels. Do the cafe crawl; join the walkers, the runners, and the dog strollers; or just drool over million-dollar real estate.

Rotorua’s Blue and Green Lakes: From the stately redwood forest on the edge of town, all the way past the Blue and Green lakes to the Buried Village and Lake Tarawera and back again, you’ll squeal with delight at a dozen different things. There are lots of picnic spots on the way, but the Landing Café at Lake Tarawera is a good bet if you forget the hamper.

The Capital to Mellow Martinborough: Once you’ve left the motorways behind, you’ll be up and over the winding Rimutaka Hill Road in little more than 40 minutes. Then it’s downhill all the way to Martinborough’s enchanting pocket of prize-winning wineries. Surrender to hedonism and squander time in idyllic vineyard settings. Make the only exercise you do raising your glass, or at most a wee stroll through pretty little Martinborough Village, where cute shops await.

Queen Charlotte Sound: Take the scenic loop from Picton to the little fishing village of Havelock and back to Picton on the main highway. Stop and admire the bush-clad sounds and the boats, and indulge in fresh green-lipped mussels grown in these very waters at The Mussel Boys restaurant, in Havelock. It’s a narrow winding road around the Sounds, so take it quietly.

Greymouth to Westport: Pretty, pretty, pretty! Nikau palms, native bush, tree ferns, jagged rocks, roaring surf, and the big blue Tasman Sea combine to make this a lovely half-day outing. Be sure to stop at the famous Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, where blowholes have a spectacular hissy fit as the ocean roars into, under, and around rocky caverns on the coast.

The Famous Milford Road: Even the Wanaka-Haast road can’t match the splendor of this one. It’s been called one of the best drives in the world, and no amount of raving can do it justice. You really have to experience it. Virgin rainforest, mirrorlike lakes, astounding waterfalls (especially during rain), beech forest, mountains of moss, bright orange lichens, and sheer mountain faces thousands of feet high contribute to the overall picture — not to mention the slightly daunting Homer Tunnel.

Auckland Museum: After a very significant internal revamp, this museum is everything you’d want in a city’s storehouse of treasures: fun, interactive, attractive, informative, and filled with interesting collections. Its Maori and Polynesian section, the biggest in the world, sends shivers down your spine; if you’ve got kids, let them loose in the Discovery Centre, where they can legally stick their fingers into just about anything.

New Zealand National Maritime Museum: At the pinnacle of New Zealand’s boating history — with the America’s Cup Challenge right in our backyard — the Maritime Museum is booming. Look for KZ1 outside, and inside discover 1,000 years of the country’s maritime history. See sail makers, boat builders, and wood-turners at work and take a cruise on one of the vessels.

Museum of New Zealand-Te Papa Tongarewa: One of the largest national museums in the world, this giant new edifice on Wellington’s waterfront is said to be 5 years ahead of anything else like it. Truly bicultural, it’s a magical place where art and artifacts meet technological brilliance, creating riveting displays and interactive playthings for all ages. You’ll find everything from a whale skeleton and a working Maori marae to art collections and virtual-reality diversions.

Canterbury Museum and the International Antarctic Centre: Although these two museums are completely separate entities located miles apart, together they present a terrific overview of life and history in Antarctica. Nowhere else in the world will you find this much gathered information about the great icy continent. There’s everything from wildlife displays to human exploration accounts and a real ice chamber so you can get the feel of life in subzero temperatures.

  

The North Island

 

Auckland — Far too often overlooked as little more than a landing port, Auckland has first-rate attractions, quality accommodations, and diverse leisure opportunities. It is without doubt the most cosmopolitan of the cities, and its balmy climate has a special appeal. Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf offer some of the world’s finest sailing, boating, and fishing, and in the aftermath of the 2002-2003 America’s Cup yachting challenge, many quality hotels, bars, and restaurants are thriving. Cultural offerings abound in museums, galleries, and performing arts centers; and shopping is the most diverse in the country. There are more than 1,000 restaurants and a wild nightlife scene, and if you’re into a beach lifestyle, there are numerous choices within easy reach. You may think it’s just another big city, but Auckland has a Polynesian backbone that makes it quite unique. If you’re touring only the North Island, Auckland is a perfect base.

Northland & Coromandel — Both are within easy reach of Auckland and can be tackled as a day trip if you’re short on time. However, each warrants at least a couple of days’ exploration; if you have to choose between the two, I’d definitely swing up to the far north.

Northland is served by a far better infrastructure in terms of transportation, hotels, and restaurants, and its beach attractions (on the east coast) are too numerous to itemize. That said, you’ll find far more tourists here, too, at least in the Bay of Islands area. Head north, though, and a whole world of unpopulated beaches awaits. Fishing, diving, boating, and camping are all big draws. The area’s rich Maori culture is also an excellent introduction to New Zealand’s history.

The Coromandel Peninsula is a slightly more rugged version of Northland, to the south of Auckland. It has a craggier coastline, a more remote landscape, and sections with very poor roads. Accommodations are middling to say the least (with a few exceptions). Still, there’s color and character here, and it’s long been a favorite with New Zealand campers and beach bunnies — especially the eastern side of the peninsula, where you’ll find some top surf beaches.

Waikato & Bay of Plenty — I spent my childhood in the Waikato region, but I find little to recommend for the visitor. Hamilton is trying its hardest, and it would be fair to say that it suffers from being in Auckland’s shadow. The Waitomo Caves have traditionally been the area’s biggest attraction, and although their natural splendor is undeniable, I find Waitomo a rather depressing place — a strange hive of tourist buses, darting in and out of otherwise undisturbed farmland.

The Bay of Plenty, on the other hand, has come of age. Tauranga and Mount Maunganui have always been hot spots. Again, the emphasis is on a beach lifestyle — boating, fishing, surfing, sunbathing, and golf are the main attractions — and some stunning accommodations are available. If you’ve been to Australia’s Gold Coast, you’ll sense a hint of that style here.

Rotorua, Taupo & Tongariro National Park — Rotorua is on almost every visitor’s hit list. Some would say that makes the area objectionably touristy. I don’t agree. Rotorua has spent millions refining its attractions and accommodations, of which there are many, and it offers a unique geographic and Maori cultural slice of New Zealand life. In terms of adventure tourism, it is biting at the heels of Queenstown.

Taupo and Tongariro National Park, in combination with Rotorua, make the whole central region an unbeatable value in terms of volcanic landscape and adventure variety. And the area is plenty big enough to avoid being bothered by others. (It’s away from key attractions.) Come here for volcanic and Maori attractions, the world’s best trout fishing, mountaineering, skiing (water and snow), mountain biking, and tramping.

Gisborne & Hawkes Bay — This is one of the most underrated areas of the country. East Cape and Gisborne offer a rare insight into Maori culture, free of tourist hype. The area has amazing beaches and world-class surfing conditions, and, in combination with Hawkes Bay, is probably the country’s most important wine-producing region. In terms of accommodations, Gisborne is definitely lacking, and its laid-back rural approach doesn’t always find favor with visitors. Hawkes Bay, on the other hand, has the best range of boutique B&Bs and cottages in the country. Napier’s Art Deco charms are legendary and definitely worthy of inspection.

Taranaki & Wanganui — Let’s put it this way — if you want the best of small-town, provincial New Zealand, this is it. I’m most drawn to Taranaki. New Plymouth is surprisingly vibrant in its own right, and you can’t help but feel that, stuck out here on its own western limb, it couldn’t care less about the rest of the country. Mount Egmont and the sea are big attractions for trampers and surfers, and the region’s gardens are stunning. And Tom Cruise seemed to like the area when he was filming The Last Samurai. Wanganui has a major asset in its river, but it needs to spruce up accommodations.

Wellington — The capital has come alive in almost every aspect. The Museum of New Zealand-Te Papa Tongarewa is, of course, a major attraction and has been built with style and flair. Once you have explored it, you will understand more clearly much of what you have seen, or are about to see, throughout the country. Wellington is also home to several national cultural companies, so you’ll find a rich performing arts program. In addition, its restaurant, nightlife, and shopping opportunities are many and varied.

And don’t overlook the vineyard and craft delights of the Wairarapa, where you’ll find the biggest selection of stunning rural cottages in New Zealand.

The South Island

 

Nelson & Marlboroguh — The best year-round climate in New Zealand can be found here. Characterized by three stunning national parks and gorgeous beaches, Nelson is often talked about with a mix of derision and envy for its alternative, slightly hippie/artsy communities. A top region to visit if you’re into arts and crafts and outdoor pursuits. And for oenophiles, there’s a growing pocket of wineries that, in combination with the Marlborough wine region, make it a must-see destination. Both areas have some superb B&Bs, homestays, and backpacker accommodations.

Christchurch & Canterbury — After Auckland, Christchurch is the second major destination for overseas tourists. Quite apart from the fact that it’s the primary starting point for South Island exploration, Christchurch is loved for its fine Victorian-Gothic architecture, its hints of old England, and its increasingly vibrant city lifestyle. It has several ski fields within a 2-hour drive, good surfing beaches, and over 40 wineries. Day trips to Hanmer, Kaikoura, Akaroa, and Methven are all popular, but each of them warrants a longer stay.

West Coast & The Glaciers — The top of the West Coast, from Westport north to Karamea, and the south, from Haast to the glaciers, are quite remarkable. It’s just a pity about the middle bit. Apart from greenstone shopping and the crazy Hokitika Wildfoods Festival, I can never find much to recommend in the central part of the West Coast. But I will concede that it has played a vigorous and important role in shaping New Zealand’s history and economy, and you certainly won’t find anything quite like it elsewhere.

Queenstown & Environs — For sheer physical impact, this southwestern portion of New Zealand is utterly unbeatable. It’s easy to understand why everyone flocks here at least once. Don’t be put off by this nonsense about Queenstown being “too touristy.” It’s a recognized international tourist resort, for goodness sake, so of course there will be lots of tourists! It has a long-standing reputation for being a work-hard, play-hard, party-hard sort of a place, and as far as I’m concerned, the more the merrier.

Milford Sound is another matter entirely. It is simply stunning, but the excessive number of buses (over 50 a day) is quite disgusting and should be reduced to make it a better experience for everyone. It is a remote wilderness area, but it’s hard to sense that with 3,000 other people standing around looking at the same mountain peak!

Wanaka has a much more low-key personality than Queenstown. It makes a beautiful stopover between Queenstown and the West Coast. You’ll find some stunning lodges and B&Bs here.

Dunedin, Southland & Stewart Island — Invercargill and Southland are sleepy, slow, incredibly friendly, and very, very green, but not that well prepared for the visitor. Dunedin is simply gorgeous, very Gothic, and in winter, very grim. But as a summer destination, it’s lovely and has lots to offer the wildlife lover. Get out onto Otago Peninsula and be prepared to have your breath taken away. It also has some handsome B&B and lodge-style accommodations in the most amazing old houses.

Farther south, the Catlins Coast and Stewart Island are remarkably unspoiled by anything — especially tourism. I’m almost loath to mention either for fear of instigating a mass influx of visitors, but good old Kiwi pride gets in the way, and I can’t help boasting about these two truly magical destinations.

  

American Express — The office is at 105 Queen St., Auckland (tel. 09/367-4422). Other offices are located in Christchurch, Hamilton, Nelson, Porirua, Pukekohe, Queenstown, Rotorua, Wellington, and Whangarei. They accept mail for clients, forward mail for a small fee, issue and change traveler’s checks, and replace lost or stolen traveler’s checks and American Express cards.

Business Hours — Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm. Shops are usually open Monday through Thursday from 9am (sometimes 8am) to 5:30pm, and until 9pm on either Thursday or Friday. Increasingly, shops are open all day Saturday; many shops are also open all day Sunday, with others closing between noon and 4pm.

Drugstores — Pharmacies observe regular shop hours, but most localities have an Urgent Pharmacy, which remains open until about 11pm every day except Sunday, when there are two periods during the day when it’s open, usually one in the morning and one in the afternoon.

Electricity — The voltage is 230 volts in New Zealand, and plugs are the three-prong type. If you bring a hair dryer, it should be a dual-voltage one, and you’ll need an adapter plug. Most motels and some B&Bs have built-in wall transformers for 110-volt, two-prong razors, but if you’re going to be staying in hostels, cabins, homestays, or guesthouses, bring dual-voltage appliances.

Embassies & Consulates — In Wellington, the capital city, you’ll find the United States Embassy, the Canadian High Commission, and the British High Commission. In Auckland, you’ll find consulates for the United States, Canada, and Ireland.

Emergencies — Dial tel. 111 to contact the police, call an ambulance, or report a fire.

Film — Film is expensive in New Zealand, so if you’re not using a digital camera, carry a lot of it from home. Most brands are available in larger cities.

Internet Access — Internet facilities are available in all major cities and in many smaller towns. Consult visitor centers for specifics, or go to www.cybercafes.com. Many establishments now offer broadband and wireless connections.

Language — English is spoken by all New Zealanders. You’ll hear Maori spoken on some TV and radio programs and in some Maori settlements.

Liquor Laws — The minimum drinking age is 18 in pubs. Children are allowed in pubs with their parents.

Lost & Found — Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s emergency number is tel. 0508/600-300 in NZ. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call collect to the U.S. at tel. 715/343-7977 715/343-7977. MasterCard holders should call tel. 0800/44-9140 in NZ.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 0800/005-253 in NZ; www.westernunion.com).

Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (tel. 800/766-0008 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (tel. 888/397-3742 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (tel. 800/680-7289 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID, call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed.

Mail — New Zealand post offices will receive mail and hold it for you for 1 month. Have the parcel addressed to you c/o Poste Restante at the Chief Post Office of the town you’ll be visiting. It costs NZ$2.50 (US$1.80/90p) to send an airmail letter to the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, or Europe. Overseas postcards cost NZ$2 (US$1.40/70p).

Maps — Get free maps from Automobile Association offices around the country by showing your home-country membership card. Rental-car firms also furnish maps with rentals.

Passports — For Residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 900/225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls.

Restrooms — There are “public conveniences” strategically located in all cities and many towns. Local Plunket Rooms come with a “Mother’s Room,” where you can change your child’s diapers. The Plunket Society is a state-subsidized organization that provides free baby care to all New Zealand families.

Taxes — There is a national 12.5% Goods and Services Tax (GST) that’s applicable to everything. A departure tax of NZ$25 (US$18/£9) is assessed and can be paid by credit card or in cash in New Zealand currency.

Telephone — The country code for New Zealand is 64. When calling New Zealand from outside the country, you must first dial the country code, then the city code (for example, 03, 09, or 06), but without the zero. The telephone area code in New Zealand is known as the STD (subscriber toll dialing). To call long distance within New Zealand, dial the STD — 09 for Auckland and Northland, 07 for the Thames Valley, 06 for the east coast and Wanganui, 04 for Wellington, or 03 for the South Island — and then the local number. (If you’re calling from outside New Zealand, omit the zero.) For operator assistance within New Zealand, dial 010; for directory assistance, 018. There are three main kinds of public telephones in New Zealand: card phones, credit card phones, and coin phones. Magnetic strip phone cards for public phones can be purchased from supermarkets, post offices, dairies, and service stations.

The most economical way to make international phone calls from New Zealand is to charge them to an international calling card (available free from your long-distance company at home). All calls, even international ones, can be made from public phone booths. (Long-distance calls made from your hotel or motel often have hefty surcharges added.) To reach an international operator, dial tel. 0170; for directory assistance for an international call, dial tel. 0172. You can also call home using Country Direct numbers. They are 000-911 for the U.S.; 000-944 for British Telecom (operator); 000-912 for British Telecom (automatic); 000-940 for UK Mercury; 000-919 for Canada; 000-996 for Australia-Optus; and 000-961 for Australia-Telstra.

Time Zone — New Zealand is located just west of the international dateline, and its standard time is 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Thus, when it’s noon in New Zealand, it’s 7:30am in Singapore, 9am in Tokyo, 10am in Sydney; and — all the previous day — 4pm in San Francisco, 7pm in New York, and midnight in London. In New Zealand, daylight saving time starts the first weekend in October and ends in mid-March.

Tipping — Most New Zealanders don’t tip waitstaff unless they’ve received extraordinary service — and then only 5% to 10%. Taxi drivers and porters are rarely tipped in this country.

Water — New Zealand tap water is pollution free and safe to drink. In the bush, you should boil, filter, or chemically treat water from rivers and lakes to avoid contracting Giardia (a waterborne parasite that causes diarrhea).

New Zealand When to Go